The Hue, Hoi An, and Da Nang area is the most visited in Vietnam. With the DMZ, three World Heritage Areas, a National Park, and several good beaches, there is plenty to see and do, and it makes a convenient base from which to explore farther a field.
The War Zone
This area saw most of the major confrontations during the American War. North of Hue is the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ, and Quang Tri Province where much of the fighting occurred. The border between the communist North and the US-supported South was the Ben Hai River, not the ‘17th Parallel’ as is popularly believed . The area still bears the scars of the massive bombardments that took place.
The few remains of the many camps and combat bases, the barren ground pockmarked with craters, and the tens of thousands of graves in the National Cemetery, a fraction of the million North Vietnamese soldiers who died in the conflict, are solemn reminders of war. Nearby is the Vinh Moc tunnel complex, less extensive, but more authentic, than the more famous Cu Chi tunnels near Ho Chi Minh City.
Hue Citadel and the centre areas
Prior to WWII, Hue had been the capital of Vietnam and the local residents act as if Hue still is. The city has a long and distinguished history. During the Tet Offensive the north Vietnamese flag flew from the citadel flag pole for 25 days. When the Americans returned to re-take the city, Hue was virtually destroyed in over ten days of terrible conflict. The film ‘Full metal jacket’ has much of the major fighting set in Hue, and accurately represents just how completely devastated the city was. It is estimated that over 10,000 people were killed during this battle including thousands of people rounded up by the North Vietnamese as ‘undesirables’ and shot or buried alive. The city has now been mainly restored and no real signs of the Tet Offensive remain except for the virtual destruction of the Imperial city.
The construction of Hue Citadel was commenced in 1801 by Emperor Gia Long. This followed a period during which the Nguyen Lords moved the capital around the surrounding area. Since the initial construction, the citadel has been altered and improved upon by a number of Emperors regarding Minh Mang, whose tomb is not far from modern day Hue city.
Unfortunately, Vietnam’s history of war has boded ill for the citadel, and much of the interior, particularly the Forbidden Purple City, has been destroyed. It was during the conflict with the Americans that some terribly bloody and vicious fighting took place, which flattened a lot of the inner city. However, some parts do still remain and will give you an idea of what a magnificent imperial capital Hue must have been.
The Citadel is almost 10 km in circumference and its walls are 6 m high and 20 m thick. The moat encircles the entire Citadel and is 23 m wide with a depth of 4 m. There are ten entrances to the citadel, many of which are now bridges and roads into the Citadel area (where people live and farm).
ve robbers, his body was not even buried in the tomb, and all those who were involved in the burial were beheaded. His body and treasures are at a destination which to this day is unknown.
The centerpiece of the tomb is a huge stone tablet that is estimated to weigh over twenty tones upon which are inscribed various clarifications of his rule. There are also a number of temples and other buildings within the tomb grounds, along with a nice lake with an island in the center. Towards the end of his rule, Tu Duc spent a lot of time on this island and generally within his tomb, accompanied by his entourage. The tomb of Tu Duc is about 7 km out of the center of Hue city.
Danang
Da Nang was the landing point of both the French and the Americans during their stints in Vietnam. When the French established a garrison in Danang (then called Tourane), more soldiers died from disease than the associated fighting in establishing the garrison. There is now a small cemetery dedicated to them.
During the Vietnam War, DaNang was the home to one fifth of all US servicemen based in Vietnam. This made Danang on of the heaviest defended cities in South Vietnam, yet it eventually fell to the North Vietnamese in 1975 with hardly a bullet fired.
Danang marks the halfway point between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City and was the first place to organize its own local communist party committee. The city is fairly featureless, and if you are coming from the tranquil setting of Lang Co, Hoi An, or anywhere for that matter, DaNang is an extreme disappointment. It is a busy, dusty, colorless city, the fourth largest in Vietnam, and one of the largest business centers. Unless you are in DaNang for business, chances are you will pass straight through. DaNang does have a fascinating Cham Museum that contains an excellent collection of Cham art. However, the main reason for staying in DaNang is in the surrounding region. China Beach, the Marble Mountains, Hoi An and My Son are all within striking distance of Danang, though it is more pleasant to stay in Hoi An and visit these sights.
Hoi An
Hoi An is a riverside town 30 km south of Danang. Known as Faifo to early Western traders, it was one of South-East Asia's major international ports during the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. In its heyday, Hoi An, a contemporary of Macau and Malacca, was an important port of call for Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese and other trading vessels. Vietnamese ships and sailors based in Hoi An sailed to Thailand and Indonesia as well as to all sections of Vietnam. Today, parts of Hoi An looks exactly as they did a century and a half ago. More than perhaps any other place in Vietnam, Hoi An retains the feel of centuries past, making it the sort of place that grows on you the more you explore it. |
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